Sedirea japonica Shima

Description

Sedirea japonica or Nagoran (“Orchid of Nago”) is native to Asia and very popular in Japan, in particular.  The genus is now widely accepted to be Phalaenopsis, but let’s keep it simple, shall we?  Most of us have enough Phals in our lives.  Before becoming Sedirea, these plants were categorized as Aerides which proves that these orchids really get around.  There are cultivars of this species that vary in size including standard, minmaru, and seigyokumaru (generally considered to be a very small minmaru).  There is also a yellow-blooming cultivar, Kibana Soshin, that really isn’t that yellow but it really is easy to kill.  So say I.  All the others are very easy as long as you don’t overwater (see below).

Sedirea japonica Shima is the striped version of the original.  Care is exactly the same, but wow!  The color!  It’s like Sedirea japonica Minmaru Shima but bigger, and I have not seen this guy before.  Every leaf and every plant is a unique work of art produced by Mother Nature.  Some plants are closer to standard Sedirea size while others are a bit smaller, almost a minmaru.  If you note which you would prefer, I will do my best to get you the size you want.  These are blooming size plants; expect flowers in the spring.

Orchid Care

Sedirea can be treated as a Phal for the most part, but please be careful not to overwater.  Sedirea is highly susceptible to rot compared to many other orchids.  They are traditionally potted in sphagnum in Japan, often mounded like fukiran; however, many northern growers will find moss stays too wet too long if you are not careful.  (Note:  this is because most people overpack their moss.)  Chronic overwaterers would do well to grow this plant bareroot, mounted, or in a basket.  I have had great success with all forms of potting as long as I am sure that those plants potted in moss will dry out in three days or less.

Because they are from the southern parts of Asia, I grow them intermediate to warm, but orchidspecies.com says they grow cool, as well.  I choose to be on the safe side and stick to the warmer temps.  Intermediate to low light is great.